CARE GUIDE

Rule #1: Keep it dry. High carbon steel reacts with moisture. After every use, wipe the blade with a dry cloth.

Patina: Over time a dark patina will develop. This is normal and actually protects the blade. Don't fight it — embrace it.

Rust: If surface rust appears, gently rub with fine steel wool (0000 grade) or a rust eraser. Re-oil immediately.

Stainless options (CPM-S35VN, Magnacut) are far more resistant to corrosion but are not immune. Prolonged exposure to salt or acids will still affect the finish.

Clean after contact with citrus, tomatoes, or saltwater. A quick rinse and wipe is sufficient. Occasional oiling is still recommended for optimal performance.

Wood (Bog Oak, Birch, Burl): Stabilized with resin but benefits from occasional conditioning with Danish Oil or beeswax. Avoid prolonged submersion.

Stabilized Wood: Stabilized wood is submerged in resin inside a vacuum chamber, making it dense and water-resistant.

Micarta & Carbon Fiber: Nearly indestructible. Clean with soap and water. These materials are built for abuse.

We sharpen with Japanese water stones (1000–8000 grit). This is the method we recommend. Maintain the original angle — typically 15–20° per side for our convex grinds.

Avoid: Pull-through sharpeners and powered grinders. They remove too much material and damage the heat treatment.

Stropping: A leather strop with green compound will maintain a razor edge between full sharpening sessions. 10 passes per side is enough.

Our sheaths are vegetable-tanned and treated with neatsfoot oil and pine tar. They will develop a rich patina over time.

Conditioning: Apply leather balm or neatsfoot oil every 3-6 months depending on use. Work it into the grain with bare hands — body heat helps absorption.

Storage: Never store a blade inside a wet leather sheath. The tanning chemicals combined with moisture will accelerate corrosion. Always dry both before storage.